Then, I’d have to wire everything together, and I wasn’t confident that I could do an aesthetically pleasing job.
#Marquee numbers plus#
With porcelain sockets, I figured that I’d need 20-30 at a few dollars apiece, plus bulbs. What they all had in common (and what led me to abandon them all) was cost and wiring. I considered regular porcelain light sockets, candelabra light sockets, lamp parts, and a host of other options. I spent a lot of time thinking about the lights. If you don’t have access to a projector, a good tutorial on the grid method can be found at the Art is Fun web site. If your letterforms have perfectly straight strokes (mine didn’t Eras uses gentle sweeping arcs), feel free to use a straightedge. Don’t worry about making the tracing perfect but try to get close you’ll be sanding your cut line in any case. Once I had the projection aligned properly, I traced the letters onto the MDF sheet with a permanent marker. In step 3 (Drawing the Letterforms) I mentioned that I drew the sheet stock to ensure that when I projected the letters onto the sheet of MDF the letters wouldn’t be distorted I used the keystone adjustment to make sure the left and right edges of the drawn sheet were parallel to the actual edges of the MDF. Note that it’s not critical to set up the sheet of MDF exactly vertical most projectors have the ability to make what are called “keystone” adjustments, which allows you to change how trapezoidal the projected image is. I adjusted the position of the projector until the image filled the sheet. I set up the sheet stock in my garage, and then placed the projector attached to my laptop. For a purely mechanical approach you could use the grid method, but I was fortunate that my local library had computer projectors available for checkout, so that’s the method I used. on your computer screen) to a larger size (i.e.
There are many ways to copy a design from a small size (i.e.
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